Hello, divers!
This is Tanque, SDI Course Director and head of Private Diver in Arraial do Cabo!
Today, I will try to put into words the sensations I experienced yesterday during a very special dive trip! Arraial is already known for its amazing dive sites, but even the most frequent divers in this paradise have rarely had the chance to explore the “B-Side” of diving in the region—specifically, the legendary “Mar de Fora” (Outer Sea)! These are the most inaccessible dive spots in the area, as they are unprotected by the mainland or islands, making them much more vulnerable to weather conditions and colder waters.
But yesterday, that opportunity arose! With our boat carrying 12 experienced divers—including the special participation of Paulo Lopes, who guided our entire operation—we set off from Arraial’s pier at Praia dos Anjos toward the Boqueirão passage. Along the way, we passed over shallow reefs displaying calm, turquoise waters, occasionally spotting turtles! The crossing through Boqueirão is intimidating, with two towering rock walls that have likely been battered by the sea for millennia. Yesterday, however, the waves were mild. As a fan of The Lord of the Rings, I couldn’t help but recall the scene of the journey through the Gates of the Kings of Gondor! And beyond Boqueirão, there it was—the Outer Sea!
Heading southeast, we navigated along the imposing coastline of Ilha do Farol in our 40-foot boat. The water gradually darkened, and a gentle, refreshing breeze hinted that the temperature was no longer the 28°C (82°F) we had experienced in the Inner Sea that week. Before long, the beautiful Gruta Azul (Blue Cave) appeared before us!
The water was calm but seemed slightly greenish. This is a cave area, where advanced training is recommended. Its triangular shape resembles a Gothic cathedral. Our captain, Fabiano—the best in the Região dos Lagos—seized the moment and skillfully maneuvered the boat’s bow into the cave entrance, demonstrating his incredible expertise.
As our eyes adjusted to the dim light inside the cave, two openings appeared—one on the left and one on the right—seemingly inviting us to the challenge! However, after discussing with the divers on board, not everyone felt confident or had the necessary training to enter. Since it was the first dive of the day, I had to make the difficult decision to abort the dive and attempt it later. With great care, our captain backed the boat away from the cave and steered toward Enseada do Oratório.
At Oratório, the water was no longer as calm. Gentle waves had turned into small swells, making our boat rock. However, the experienced divers remained composed as they prepared their gear. The water here was clearer, with distinct blue tones, and even a bit warmer. To the east of the bay lies a high islet with well-known dive sites like Buraco do Mero and Arco do Mero! After evaluating the conditions, Paulo and I decided this would be our first dive site of the day.
Everyone got ready, and the deck became momentarily chaotic as side-mounted tanks were loaded, divers struggled to stand under the weight of their twin tanks, and last-minute adjustments were made. Within minutes, everyone was in the water, making final gear checks and preparing to descend! Once the buddy teams were confirmed, the descent signal was given. The sound of regulators breathing at the surface and BCDs deflating filled the air for a few moments—then, all at once, we were submerged, descending along a stunning underwater wall.
The wall was covered in encrusting corals, and the water temperature was around 22°C (72°F)—not bad for this location. Beneath the wind-driven surface waves, the water was calm with good visibility. We descended to about 18 meters (60 feet), where our journey toward Buraco do Mero began. Looking down, I couldn’t see the bottom—visibility was around 15 meters (50 feet), and I wondered how deep it actually went. 40? 50 meters? It was all so impressive.
Paulo guided with confidence, knowing exactly where we were and where we were going. For the first time in a long while, I was able to relax and enjoy the dive as if I were just another tourist, only responsible for watching over my buddy, Kelly—who, luckily, was a calm and buoyancy-controlled diver. As we continued, Paulo led us to a cave in the wall. Inside, we found two of the largest queen angelfish (Holacanthus ciliaris) I had ever seen! We used our flashlights to explore the cavern a bit before continuing toward Buraco do Mero.
Buraco do Mero is a passage formed by fallen rocks over hundreds of years (perhaps?), now covered in corals and sea urchins. It starts at around 15 meters (50 feet) deep and descends further. The passage is narrow—just enough for two divers with single tanks to squeeze through, or one diver with side-mounted tanks to pass with relative ease. While not quite a cave, the fallen stones create fun swim-throughs, making it an exciting dive.
Emerging from the maze of rock formations, we arrived at Arco do Mero! A majestic archway, made of two large stones separated by a passage 5 to 8 meters (16-26 feet) long, topped with a massive oval-shaped rock resembling a giant stone table. Watching the divers swim through it was simply breathtaking! I paused for a moment, taking it all in and feeling grateful for the opportunity to be there.
As we passed through the arch, Amanda—diving with twin tanks—showcased her keen eye for finding tiny nudibranchs. These little creatures, with their blue and white stripes and vibrant orange gills, were fascinating to observe. Time seemed to fly by, and before we knew it, our planned 45-minute dive had come to an end.
After surfacing and discussing our next dive, we decided to attempt the Gruta Azul again. This time, the sun illuminated the entrance, and after planning our dive carefully, we took the plunge! The water was freezing—18°C (64°F)! One diver immediately backed out due to the cold. We regrouped, adjusted buddy teams, and began our descent.
At first, the water was murky and green, but suddenly, as if by magic, it cleared! Inside the cave, the water was pristine but even colder—16°C (60°F). The walls were covered in mussels, clinging to the rocks despite the powerful ocean swells. As we ventured deeper, we encountered vibrant red anemones, resembling carnivorous flowers, some even devouring lost jellyfish!
Then, I stopped breathing for a second. There it was—the legendary siphon of Gruta Azul! A gap at the top of the cave allowed sunlight to pierce through, casting a dazzling blue light into the water. Divers rushed to capture photos, but I simply froze, mesmerized by the spectacle.
Diving can sometimes become routine, making you forget why it’s so special. But that day, I remembered!
We completed our dive, and many of us still wanted more! Some divers stayed on the boat while the rest of us planned a second dive inside the cave. One last chance to admire the anemones, the light show of the siphon, and the pure magic of the place.
Back on our boat Al-Camar, we were all exhilarated by the day’s adventures! Returning to the Inner Sea, the waves sprayed us with warm 28°C (82°F) water—such a contrast to what we had just experienced.
Arraial do Cabo is a magical place, offering incredible dives for all skill levels. And today, it showed its true power!
Thank you, God, for this day! And thanks to Amanda, Luiz, Alexandre, Gianni, Carlos (both of them!), Cadu, Sidnei, Natália, Kelly, Fabiano, Vivi, Patrícia, and especially Paulo for making this day possible!
Until next time!